The Rain Forest: Part 2, Ketchikan

Our final night was spent in Ketchikan, once declared the most disgraceful, vice-riddled city in America (no doubt due to the twenty or so brothels lining Creek Street, as well as the open alcohol consumption and gambling during the Prohibition). 

A view of Creek Street and some of the surviving houses of ill-repute, 

re-purposed as shops.

However, that was long ago, and with the repeal of the Thirteenth Amendment, and the closing of the last brothel in the 1950's, it is now a favorite stop for tourists and cruise ships, alike, with a well-developed shopping district along the harbor. 

For those who venture farther into the town, be prepared for a good walk. In my last post, I mentioned that these islands are not flat, and nowhere is that more apparent than Ketchikan.

What passes for a sidewalk in this town.

In fact, those parts of the town that aren't built over the water are built up the sides of hills so steep, in one case a trolley was installed for pedestrians.

(Note the trolley and track behind the totem pole)

A creative approach to reaching the front door.

The town even added a fish ladder to help the salmon up Ketchikan Creek.

(though most likely for other reasons than the steepness, but still...)

As an interesting side note, the hotel we stayed at was called the Inn at Creek Street / New York Hotel. The Inn at Creek Street seemed self-explanatory, but not the New York part. Turned out this hundred-year-old hotel was originally owned by Japanese immigrants (a not uncommon ethnic group in old Alaska) who immigrated through Ellis Island (no idea how they ended up there) and then settled in Ketchikan (which is about as far from New York as one could get). They were so pleased to be in America they named their hotel after the first city they stayed in. Being a fan of old historic buildings, I loved this hotel with all its antiques and period furnishings.

The bedside stand, right out of the '40's!

(Inn at Creek Street/ New York Hotel)

And last, but not least, one of the real reasons I loved this town? A friendly feline (and only the second one I saw on the entire trip through Alaska, besides the mayor of Talkeetna).

And so ends my trip through Alaska, and nearly three weeks of paradise.

 If you have any thoughts or comments, feel free to post a comment below or email me at ellen.lindseth@gmail.com.

The Rain forest: Part 1, Sitka

After the mountains and glaciers and tundra of the first two weeks of our travels, the lush, hilly landscape of the rain forest took me by surprise.

The islands are not flat, as you can see.

 (the town of Sitka is in the foreground)

Richly forested, relatively temperate in climate, and with what once seemed an inexhaustible bounty of fish and fur, I could see why this beautiful area had tempted the Russians to set up shop in 1799. Given the name of Redoubt Saint Michael (a redoubt being a precursor to a fort), the now-named Sitka was the epicenter of nearly seventy years of Russian military and cultural influence in the area, influence that is still visible today.

A cannon on top of Castle Hill, Sitka.

(note the imperial double eagle of the tsar.)

Throughout the coastal regions and down the Aleutian chain, one can't help but notice all the Russian Orthodox churches, and one of Sitka's most famous buildings is the residence of Bishop Innocent, built in 1843. It is one of three surviving examples of colonial Russian architecture in North America, it has been superbly restored by the National Park Service, right down to matching the wallpaper and reupholstering the furniture with fabric from the original manufacturer.

Where Bishop Innocent slept (which would've been a challenge since he was reportedly over six feet tall)

Where he would greet important guests. (and check out that samovar!)

His personal desk, designed and built by him.

Two notable things about Bishop Innocent: one, he was the architect of the present St. Michael church in downtown Sitka (it was built to his plans after the original church burned down). 

This is his personal chapel in his residence, 

to give you some idea of how beautiful the Russian Orthodox churches are.

And two, he played a major role in calming the tensions between the Russian military and the indigenous Tlingit people. Unlike so many missionaries, he didn't insist on the Tlingits abandoning their religious beliefs. Instead, he showed how Christianity echoed what they already believed, thus allowing the old ways to coexist with the new.

Which brings us to the real settlers of Sitka: the Tlingits. And their cultural influence, which extends back nearly 10,000 years, is also very visible today.

One of many examples of totem poles preserved in Sitka National Historic Park.

There's a wonderful walking/jogging path that takes you past these beauties, 

with the ocean only another dozen yards or so beyond.

A detail from one.

 I'm guessing a bear since it lacks the prominent front teeth of a beaver.

And me standing by one, just for perspective.

Never designed to last, these intricately carved and painted monuments were basically meant to be huge, disposable party decorations, that either told a story, or described an event, or honored whoever was throwing the party. Thankfully, someone decided to preserve a few for future generations, and Sitka National Historic Park was formed to both mark the 1804 battle site between Russian traders and the Tlingit, and as a cultural heritage center. There are other totem poles and other parks dedicated to them around Alaska, but this is the one I would recommend.